Savuti Camp
African Photo Safari Part 1
Located in the Linyanti Concession bordering Chobe National Park in northeastern Botswana, Savuti Camp provides travelers seven permanent luxury tents and great game viewing. Known for its elephants during the dry part of the year, other animals such as zebra, giraffe, hyenas, wildebeest, jackals, baboons, mongoose, kudu, and lion can be seen here as well. Birdlife is more abundant during the summer months (December through March in the southern hemisphere) and coincides with when most of the animals’ young are born. My visit takes place in March during the Wet Season. The green grass is high with the leaves still on the trees. Game viewing can be more challenging at this time of year when animals are more spread-out and not forced to gather at shrinking water sources. Along the Savuti Channel which recently reappeared after being absent for 25 years, sits the camp. Tectonic movements in the earth’s crust control the flow and the timing of when the water runs. Remaining a mystery, what was open grassland filled with antelope and predators now also has a waterway attracting other types of wildlife such as hippos, crocodiles, and various waterfowl.
Arriving by small aircraft from Maun, I am greeted by my guide and shuttled to camp. Summoned by beating drums for obligatory tea and biscuits, we are off on our first game drive. This is what I came to Africa for. Motoring along sandy roads, we drop down to the channel. Following its shoreline, I see a Von der Decken’s Hornbill capturing and downing a beetle. A Pied Kingfisher clasps its beak tightly on a fish while repeatedly clubbing it over a branch before swallowing it. It is eat or be eaten in the African bush even for the small creatures. Further along we come across two hippos wallowing in the channel occasionally popping their heads partially out of the water to look at us and grunt. With a waggle of the ears they submerge. Away from the water we wind through Savannah Woodland past Topi, Kudu, and abundant groups of Impala. Male Impala of a bachelor herd click horns in practice sparring matches before bounding into the forest with the others. Back by the channel Blacksmith Lapwings take flight upon close approach. Carmine Bee-eaters swoop our Land Rover feasting on insects that our vehicle scatters. A beautiful light-crimson colored bird with turquoise and green markings; they would be our constant companions. The highlight of the evening is when a female lion and her two cubs amble down the path and lay down next to us. The cubs playfully paw at one another while the mother watches from the corner of her eye. Normally not a problem, our driver feels that the cubs are too close and backs away. After a “sundowner” consisting of alcoholic drinks with a snack we return to the lodge. On the way to my tent a porcupine weaves under the boardwalk avoiding our flashlights.
Coming days are filled with zebra, giraffes, waterbuck, Egyptian Geese, Helmeted Guineafowl, warthogs, and jackals. The smell of an old lion-killed giraffe carcass overwhelms us under the watchful eyes of White-backed Vultures. One of them spreads his wings over a tree branch to dry itself. Dwarf Mongoose dart in and out of an abandoned termite mound. One afternoon a small herd of elephants mingled in the thorny acacia scrub with a baby in tow. Sitting nearby on the road observing, the mother elephant takes exception to our presence stepping towards us with ears perpendicular shaking her head from side to side. Clearly an aggressive sign, we hold our ground. She gives out a mighty trumpet and backs away satisfied that the warning was heeded.
On my last full day at Savuti, we venture north toward the Chobe River. We pass Fish Eagles perched in trees and egrets standing on hippo backs for a better fishing vantage. African Darters dot waterside logs and Monitor Lizards hug the water’s edge. A Red Lechwe splashes through thick grass as we rendezvous with camp staff for a well-appointed “bush lunch.” Continuing our game drive a call comes over the radio. African Wild Dogs have been spotted! I usually don’t put expectations on my safaris but one of the animals I really hoped to see on this trip was Wild Dogs. Fewer than five thousand of the canines remain and just witnessing one would be a privilege. We race to the site where two more safari vehicles will be awaiting us. The dogs are far off the road and our best landmark is vultures scattered about the treetops. Vultures often follow Wild Dogs because they know what efficient hunters they are and it won’t be long before a kill is made. Bushwhacking through rough terrain we finally find the Wild Dogs and the other Land Rovers. A pack of eight, they are taking their midday nap by a waterhole. Marbled in black, gold, and white, most of them are sleeping with a few rolling over or taking a look around. Once in a while one gets up to find a more comfortable spot. The lackadaisical scene doesn’t befit the voraciousness the dogs’ posses. Even lions and hyenas won’t mess with Wild Dogs unless numbers are in their favor. We move to the other side of the waterhole for another perspective when a Spotted Hyena cozies up to the flank of our open-sided 4×4. A mere six feet away, he pokes his nose high in the air giving us a good sniff. I am only three days into a ten day safari and I’ve been lucky enough to see the Wild Dogs! Everything else will be a bonus.
Next time: Kwetsani Camp.